Made in India is seeing a revival—a revolutionary revival, actually. A host of designers are shining the spotlight on traditional handlooms and weaves from different parts of the country without succumbing to the ‘modern update’. So on the one hand you have Rahul Mishra putting chanderi on the international style map, while on the other Prime Minister Narendra Modi made khadi kurtas and nehru jackets stitched in Ahemdabad a major rage. Embracing and donning our Indian heritage is no longer considered old school or uncool. In fact, this return to our roots is a thing now. A stylish statement, really. If you’ve been following along you know Luxemi’s been championing this for awhile. So if you’re gearing up to make closet space for this traditional throwback, it begs the question—can you tell your patolas from your kalamkaris? And do you which region is famous for their upadas? Fret not; we have the ultimate guide for you!
The looms of Pochampalli, Venkatagiri, Gadwal, Narayanpet, Dharmavaram, Uppadas are best known for their silk and cotton sarees. The state’s Mangalgiri cottons and Kalmkari prints are lauded as well.
That tussar silk (a non-mulberry type of silk) sari your grandmom is so fond of? It’s from this state! Bihar is also equally famous for their handwoven cotton mulmuls, particularly in the Madhubani print.
The patola print, which is a particular craze these days, is a specialty of Gujarat and is made using a tie and dye technique that requires intricate weaving. The region’s Kutch work is equally well known too.
Jammu and Kashmir
Your shawl collection can never be deemed complete without atleast one pure pashmina or toosh from the region. Kashmiri kashida embroidery is equally beautiful and has to be seen to be believed! No wonder Manish Malhotra dedicated an entire collection to it in 2012!
The chanderi fabric that Rahul Mishra has made so famous world over comes from this state. The state’s craftsmen are masters at churning our chanderi silk and maheshwari sarees too.
The ikat print, which is splashed across collections of most high street giants today, is in fact the forte of this state and is known as sambalpuri ikat. Orissa is also famed for their bomkari handlooms, where designs are inspired by mythology spruced with animal and floral patterns.
Rajasthan’s handlooms are just as vibrant and colourful as the state’s culture. Their bandhani or bandhej (a type of tie and dye technique), leheriya, gotta patti, zari and zardosi work are extremely famous and have found patrons in several designers like Anita Dongre and Nidhi Tholia among others.
Lucknowi chikan embroidery, an erstwhile favourite of Nawabs and royalty as well as a technique on which Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have built their empire, hails from UP. It has been adapted into western and fusion wear too.
What do you think of our Indian weaves 101 session? Tell us in the comment box below!