The Best Of India Couture Week 2014

 

L to R: Shraddha Kapoor in Gaurav Gupta, Alia Bhatt in Manish Malhotra and Lisa Haydon in Monisha Jaising

India Couture Week 2014 followed close on the heels of Haute Couture Week held in Paris, and reinforced India’s prowess when it comes to design and craftsmanship. Taking a cue from last year’s Couture Week, there was a continued focus on catering to a younger crowd as the designers experimented with newer, fresher silhouettes.

And while we definitely missed Anamika Khanna, there was still plenty to love this year too. After a thorough scanning of all the looks that set the runways ablaze, we bring you the collections that made us fall in love with Indian couture all over again!

Anju Modi

In yet another avant-garde tribute to womanhood, Anju Modi used her collection ‘Manikarnika’ to bring regional craft to the forefront, while staying true to her earthy design sensibility.The line centered around dhoti pants teamed with asymmetrical jackets and cropped jackets and half buttoned full length anarkalis. It was a pairing that felt fresh and fashion forward. The jewellery, as is always the case with Modi, was another highlight.

 

Gaurav Gupta

Gaurav Gupta’s collection was as dramatic and sensual as one would expect it to be. Think sheer panels, peek-a-boo cutouts and unforgiving fits. But there were also a few safe full-skirted lehengas with long brocade jackets and pants paired with structured jackets (to cater to the more conventional market, perhaps?). Gupta’s signature sari-gown made several appearances (how could it not?), this time spruced with stunning, embellished capes.

Manish Arora

Hands down the most recognized Indian designer abroad, you can always count on Manish Arora to bring a dash of irreverence, playfulness and eclecticism to a couture showing. At this years show, Arora’s set was full-on disco themed, and saw models walk down the runway in kalidar midi skirts, bell-bottom shararas, plunging (actually that might just be an understatement) necklines, mirror embellishments and statement baubles. Couture kitsch, anyone?

Manish Malhotra

Manish Malhotra’s ‘Portraits’ collection was all about unabashed glamour (what else), with a vintage spin. There was ample of mirror work, zardosi, sequins and resham embroidery. Silhouettes ranged from lehengas and saris paired with jacket-style blouses and unexpected sheer necklines to sleeker, more restrained floor length kurtas. And of course, Bollywood show stoppers—Alia Bhatt and Aditya Roy Kapoor.

Monisha Jaising

An extension of the sentiment of her previous couture showing, Monisha Jaising’s ‘World Bride’ collection continued to target the modern Indian bride who likes her bridal repertoire to be contemporary. Hence there were plenty of draped saris in flirty colours, printed and gleaming gowns and a lehengas galore. The icing on the cake, however, was the black leather lehenga worn with a white shirt and traditional jewellery, modelled by Lisa Haydon. Fierce!

Rohit Bal

Rohit Bal chose a cocktail preview over a runway show to display his capsule collection, one that was replete with classic, free-flowing anarkalis, saris and lehengas in ivory, spruced with elegant jewellery. The pop of color came by way of the menswear on display.

Sabyasachi

Sabyasachi’s show was drenched in the genius and sheer magnificence that only this Kolkatta-based designer can bring to the table. His collection ‘Ferozabad’ retained the maharani-chic, vintage vibe his creations are generally associated with (in fact, many felt that the entire collection had a sense of déjà vu), albeit with a relatively more modern touch. There was a special focus on menswear in bright chintz too. The set, which resembled a luxury train headed to Ferozabad in Uttar Pradesh, was the real hero though.

Varun Bahl

A fresh collection, targeted at a younger clientele, Varun Bahl’s showing had a varied color palette—starting with noir and then moving on to ivory, teal, canary yellow and bridal pink and red. Sure the conventional bridal pieces made an appearance, but what really caught our eye were the asymmetrical kurtas paired with sheer leggings, embroidered gowns, OTT floral motifs and Bahl’s signature sheer blouses.

Until next season!

Check out our Couture Week reports from 2012 and 2011 here. 

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi 

Luxemi’s top picks from India Bridal Fashion Week ’13

Tarun Tahiliani ensemble

Reasons beyond the typical runway shenanigans brought this years second bridal week, India Bridal Fashion Week ’13, to the spotlight. Several fashion editors unabashedly tweeted how hard it’s become to keep track of the unending fashion weeks taking place these days. While we agree it may be overkill and that gimmicks and celebrity show stoppers take away from the real focus, the fashion — we still can’t help but pay attention when bridal wear is involved (no surprises there).  And this round up of our favorite looks from ‘the week that was’ will make curating your trousseau and nuptial looks simpler!

Structured drama at Gaurav Gupta

Gaurav Gupta

The coming-of-age of the gen-next Indian bride can be credited to Gaurav Gupta to a large extent. His love affair with structured silhouettes and western cuts continued with this collection too — perfect for a cocktail party or intimate reception.

Draped saris at Tarun Tahiliani

Tarun Tahiliani

Tarun Tahiliani’s signature pre-draped saris stole the show this bridal week. We absolutely love their effortless drama. Just throw on statement earrings, pull back  your hair and you are sangeet-ready.

White meets gold at Rohit Bal

Rohit Bal

Goodbye sindoor red bridal wear and hello white + gold! The past year has been all about white traditional wear (previously considered an inauspicious color for brides) and Bal dedicated ample runway time to this color combination. We heart!

Layered salwars at Falguni & Shane Peacock

Falguni & Shane Peacock

There is a certain degree of flamboyance and opulence associated with Falguni & Shane Peacock designs and their bridal line was no different. We are lusting over the layered salwars with sheer overlays —  a welcome break from the ubiquitous zari-gota anarkalis. We’re also digging the Senorita vibe of the updo!

Androgynous silhouettes at Raghavendra Rathore

Raghavendra Rathore

Raghavendra Rathore is India’s final authority on jodhpuris and bandhgalas. He extended his revered mastery to androgynous women’s traditional wear with sherwanis, bandhgalas and gowns this time. We can’t wait to slip into these styles for an engagement party!

So there you have it —  update your desi wardrobe with our handy guide.  It’s all about mixing tradition with a sprinkle of irreverence this season!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

Luxemi Interviews Fashion and Celebrity Stylist Kushal Parmanand

Sonakshi Sinha styled by Kushal Parmanand for Hi! Living

Fashion and celebrity stylist Kushal Parmanand jokingly refers to himself as an “Indian fashion industry fossil!” And considering he’s got over 10 years of experience under his belt, we get why (well, kind of!). His foray into the industry was one most can only dream of — he kick started his career with revered couturiers Abu Jani & Sandeep Khosla after which he moved on to working with Nandita Mahtani. Styling came knocking his way in the form of a Fashion Directorship at Seventeen India, followed by stints at L’Officiel India, L’Officiel Homme, Hi!Blitz and most recently Noblesse India. His stellar repertoire also boasts of styling Bollywood beauties like Bipasha Basu, Sonakshi Sinha and Sonali Bendre among others. We engage the stylist du jour in an exclusive tete-a-tete!

Celebrity and fashion stylist Kushal Parmanand

Luxemi: How did you foray into fashion? Is it something you always wanted? 

Kushal Parmanand: My foray into fashion was actually by default. I come from a family of two generations of engineers and they obviously wished for me to continue their legacy. After trying to pursue an education in computer science and management studies for two years, I finally landed at Fanshawe fashion school in June 2000 to pursue my true calling. I remember wanting to be in fashion, a designer in particular, since I was in 8^th grade. Rohit Bal was my idol then.

Luxemi: You have worked with some of the country’s top stylistas — right from Sonam Kapoor and Kareena Kapoor to Deepika Padukone and Katrina Kaif. Who are your personal favorites?

Kushal Parmanand: I think I have the biggest crush on Bebo (Kareena Kapoor)! She is undoubtedly my favorite. She is extremely easy going and a breeze to work with. Most celebrities today know what works for them and are quite fashion focused. Having worked with many of them editorially over the years I feel that working collectively and keeping common interests in mind helps get the best out of a shoot!

Luxemi: Who are some of your favorite Indian and international designers?

Kushal Parmanand: Wow that is a very tough and long list! I love the work Riccardo Tisci does for Givenchy couture. This seasons in particular; I am loving key pieces from Balenciaga, Monique Lhuillier and Vionnet while Elie Saab, Dior, Valentino and Lanvin remain eternal favorites. On the Indian front I love different designers for their varied focuses. Anamika Khanna, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, Rajesh Pratap Singh and Gaurav Gupta are my favorite veterans. From the younger lot I am partial to Kallol Datta, Sailex and Nachiket Barve.

Actually I feel fashion is a bit fickle in that sense — every season you are bound to love that someone a little more purely because their showing tugged at your heart strings more than the others.

Luxemi: Autumn-Winter ’13 Indian wear trends that ought to be tried this season? Also tell us about the top colors one must have in their wardrobe? 

Kushal Parmanand: Monochrome continues to be a huge trend this season. Punk and vintage inspired fashion is also big. Think of smaller ways to include them in your traditional wardrobe. Red is THE color to be swearing by — not only is it one of our most traditional colors, it also looks lovely on Indian skin. Make sure to experiment with interesting updos and accessories for a refined look.

Luxemi: Style icons who carry Indian wear beautifully? 

Kushal Parmanand: I think Deepika (Padukone) looks great in Indian wear. She has an inherent grace about her, almost like royalty. Apart from her I think Kareena (Kapoor) looks her best when she is in a sari.

Luxemi: Your favorite picks from Luxemi.com? 

Kushal Parmanand: Laila Motwane’s lehangas, the coral wrap kurta from Nikasha,  saris by Neeru Kumar and jhumkis  from Amrapali are my top picks. The wine salwar with shell embroidery, Foil Printed “Club” Pallu Saree by Satya Paul and Flowing Net Anarkali with Embroidery by Kisneel are also great options.

Parmanand’s top picks from Luxemi

Parmanand’s top picks from Luxemi

Amrapali earrings on Luxemi

Luxemi: If one has only 10 minutes to put together an Indian look, what should be their go-to?

Kushal Parmanand: The chotu sari (one with a shorter hemline) is a great option.

Chotu sari by Nandita Thirani

Pre-pleated saris and sari gowns are easier to drape, making them ideal go-tos as well. If neither works for you, there is always the humble salwar kurta which has many interesting variations this season. I personally always steer towards a minimalistic look. Finish it off with a dash of a strong lip and a messy braid or updo — absolutely perfect when you’re on the run!

Sonakshi Sinha styled by Kushal Parmanand for Hi!Blitz

So take it from the man who knows best and make these quick tweaks to your desi closet. Trust us when we say that these simple additions will go a long way!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi

Luxemi’s top picks from PCJ Delhi Couture Week 2013

Far removed from the tug of war of multiple fashion weeks in India, FDCI’S PCJ Delhi Couture Week proudly holds it own. A showing eagerly anticipated every year; this runway catapults into a playground for the country’s most revered and sought-after couturiers. After taking in this the five-day extravaganza from our very own FRow seats (virtually of course, thanks to FDCI’S YouTube channel), we bring you our absolute favorites from the week that was!

Gold rush at Anju Modi

Model at Anju Modi at Delhi Couture Week. Image credit: M.A.C Cosmetics

Anju Modi’s opening act for the week was inspired by Mahabharata’s heroine Draupadi and we just couldn’t get over the overdose of gold jewelry that stole the limelight.

Model at Anju Modi at Delhi Couture Week. Image credit: M.A.C Cosmetics

From ostentatious gold ear cuffs and medals pinned on blouses to maang tikkas and belts, here’s something we are definitely trying at our next traditional do!

Restrained glamour at Sabyasachi

A designer we can never find fault with, Sabyasachi unfailingly stuns. We loved his take on restrained vintage glamour and the show stopper lehenga, with its subtle smattering of sparkle made instant fans out us.

Showstopper for Sabyasachi at Delhi Couture Week

We also loved the focus on layering plus mixing and matching jewelry. Nose rings, maang tikkas and pearls paired with emeralds are clearly here to stay!

Jewelry overload at Sabyasachi. Image credit: M.A.C Cosmetics

Draped drama at Anamika Khanna

Model in dhoti pants at Anamika Khanna’s showing at Delhi Couture Week

She is the undisputed Couture Week favorite and boy, does she deliver! We particularly fell in love with her renditions of dhoti pants – quite the variety to take your pick from too. Her capes with scalloped borders and gold embroidery also get our vote!

Sonam Kapoor in an outfit from Anamika Khanna’s Couture Week collection

Sonam Kapoor has already been spotted in a hot of the runway creation by the Kolkatta-based designer and we are awed by its effortless transition from ramp to reality!

Easy chic at Monisha Jaising

Pant-suit by Monisha Jaising

The easy accessibility of Monisha Jaising’s collection targeted at the destination bride will surely find many takers. We love the versatility of her desi pant suit. Works for a wedding soiree as well as a night out on town!

Sheer loving at Varun Bahl

Intricate embroidery was artfully balanced by sheer silhouettes in Varun Bahl’s collection. So what’s the one thing we are sure to incorporate into our wardrobe from this?

Sheer embroidered blouses by Varun Bahl

Why, the embroidered sheer blouses without a doubt! Quite a welcome break from its run-of-the-mill counterparts, don’t you agree?

Statement prints at Satya Paul

Satya Paul’s Demi Couture collection at Delhi Couture Week

Masaba Gupta made her foray into the big league with her first ever demi-couture line for Satya Paul. True to her sensibilities it was a print party with statement silhouettes.

Strong prints and silhouettes at Satya Paul

Striking a chord with us was the pairing of simple ensembles with an overdose of precious jewelry.

The sari-gown at Gaurav Gupta

Sari gowns by Gaurav Gupta

Not surprisingly, the runway reveled in the multiple versions of his signature sari-gown when Gaurav Gupta took to the stage. These figure hugging structured drapes with a touch of shimmer are a no-brainer for a cocktail party or wedding reception.

Bare backs at Manish Malhotra

Bare backs at Manish Malhotra

It was all about deep cuts and bold bare backs at Couture Week’s closing show by Bollywood favorite Manish Malhotra.

Deepika Padukone in a low cut blouse by Manish Malhotra

Take a cue from Malhotra and skip the demure ploy this season. We sure are!

Until next season!

Praachi Raniwala for Luxemi